Back into the History of Khmer Splendor

During the zenith of the Khmer Empire, Surin was on its pilgrimage route, as evidenced from the existing tens of archeological sites. From Surin, travelers can easily go further to Prasat Wat Phu in Laos, Prasat Khao Phra Wihan in Si Sa Ket, and Prasat Phanom Rung in Buri Ram.

1) Prasat Muang Thi

This Khmer temple was modified. The brick-and-concrete complex is dominated by one principal tower, or prang, at the center, representing Mount Meru, the abode of God. Four smaller prangs, only three of which remain now, are located at each corner of the principal one, representing the subordinate mountains in which lower Gods dwell. The remains show that these prangs are on 12-cornered indented square platform.

2) Prasat Chom Phra

This ancient “hospital” is in almost perfect condition. The laterite and sandstone buildings face east. The principal square prang has an adjunct rectangular porch in the front, surrounded with walls with a portal of cruciform design, A pond is located outside the wall.

Significant edifices unearthed from the site include the head of Mahayana Bodhisattva, Enlightened being, and the figure of Vajarasattva, a guardian spirit. The characteristics of these edifices correspond to the Khmer’s Bayon art (around 1177-1237), in the reign of King Chaiyaworaman VII.

3) Prasat Sikhoraphum

 Locally called Prasat Ra Ngaeng this Khmer ruin consists of 1 principal tower, or prang, and 4 smaller towers at each corner, on the same laterite platform, surrounded by a moat. The edifice faces east, with a balustrade leading to a single portal, suggesting the influence of Khmer’s Bapuan (1007-1107) and Angkor Wat (1107-1157) styles. This edifice was probably constructed in mid-11^th century to worship Hindu God Shiva, and modified in the 16^th century into a Buddhist temple. Prasat Sikhoraphum opens daily, from 07.30 am. – 06.00 pm.. Entrance fee is 10 baht for Thais and 30 baht for foreigners.

4) Prasat Yai Ngao

This Khmer ruin consists of 3 towers, only 2 of which remain now, lying on laterite platforms in North-South direction. The Fine Arts Department has laid down recovered pieces in the compound’s front yard, including the tower vertex, balusters and portal frame, etc. Bas-relief found in this ruin depicts legendary animal called makon, an amalgam of lion, elephant and fish, with five-headed serpent in its mouth. The bas-relief depicting serpents resemble that of the Angkor Wat, contrived in the 12^th century.

5) Prasat Phum Pon

The complex occupies 4 ancient structures – 3 brick and 1 laterite, lying in North-South direction. The big brick structure and the northern one remain in rather good condition. These two structures are among the oldest Khmer ruins in Thailand, presumably erected in the 6^th – 7^th centuries. The brick one in the middle and the laterite in the South were seemingly built later.

This complex was meant to be a Hindu religious site like other contemporary ones. No lingum is discovered, but in the big edifice there remains Somasutra, a pipe to convey sacred water from the platform of the statue in the central room.

6) Prasat Ban Phlai

This rather complete complex displays three brick towers, or prang, surrounded by a moat with an entrance on the East. It was seemingly constructed in the 10^th century.

7) Prasat Ban Phluang

This edifice, in Khmer’s Bapuan artistic style, was constructed in the 10^th – 11^th centuries. The renovation in 1972 pulled down the edifice into pieces, strengthened its base and recomposed the whole edifice to the same shape.

This elaborately carved edifice is located on indented square platform, surrounded by a U-shaped moat, and a big pond further away.

The most impressive components are the gable-end and the lintel. The eastern gable-end depicts Phra Krisana raising Kho Wanthana Mountain. Bas-relief depicting small animals adorn the front wall, and that depicting a guardian with a club in its hand adorn each side of the entrance.

The eastern and southern lintels depict God Indra on Erawan Elephant, located above the demon, which sticks out its tongue and holds the mouthed garlands with its two hands. The northern lintel depicts Phra Krisana killing serpent. This ruin was seemingly dedicated to God Indra. The basrelief on the southern gable-end and lintel depict rows of animals, probably suggesting fertility in the kingdom.

Prasat Ban Phluang opens daily during 07.30 am. – 06.00 pm.. Admission fee is 10 baht for Thais and 30 baht for foreigners.

Group of Prasat Ta Muean

Despite the easy access to the group of Prasat Ta Muean, its adjacency to the Thai-Cambodian border makes it advisable for all visitors to inform their presence to the military or border patrol police posted along the way.

It is suggested that visitors should visit the innermost Prasat Ta Muean Thom first, before coming back to the nearer Prasat Ta Muean Tot and Prasat Ta Muean.

8) Prasat Ta Muean Thom

As Thom means big, Prasat Ta Muean Thom is the biggest one in this group of edifices. Located on the Phanom Dong Rak Range, this ruin lies on the route linking the Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom to Prasat Hin Phimai. It is now hidden amidst lush forest, the southern part of which is right on the Cambodian border.

The compound has 3 towers, the principal one in the central and the smaller one on its left and right, made from pink sandstones.

Two laterite wihan exist on the East and West. The compound is surrounded by sandstone cloister. Of the four gopuras, entrance pavilions, the southern one is the biggest and links to the balustrade that drops off to the slope in Cambodia.

A pond lies on the north outside the cloister. A Khmer inscription on the southeastern cloister refers to a person named Phra Kalapa Krisna.

No man-made lingum is found here. A big rock, representing lingum, is found in the principal tower, similar to the one found at Yot Phu Kao in Champasak in southern Laos.

9) Prasat Ta Muean Tot

Tot is Cambodian means small. This small “hospital” is in almost perfect condition. The square principal tower, constructed with laterite and sandstones, has an adjunct porch in the front, surrounded with laterite wall. The only one gopura faces East, and a pond exists in front of the wall. This Prasat was constructed in the reign of King Chaiyaworaman VII, in the 12^th century. 

10) Prasat Ta Muean

Locally called Prasat Bai Khrim, this edifice is supposed to be 1 of the 17 rest stops for the pilgrims, constructed by the command of King Chaiyavarman VII along the route linking Yasothon Pura, the capital of the Khmer Empire, to Phimai.

This laterite solitary tower faces East. An elongated room adjoins the front of the tower. Fake windows were sculpted on the northern wall, while real windows exist only on the southern one. The remaining southern lintel depicts the Buddha in the posture of meditation.

11) Border market at Chong Chom

In the former time, Chong Chom was the biggest and most convenient channel to Cambodia. The Kui passed through this channel to raid wild elephants in Cambodia, while villagers walked back and forth to buy necessities in the other country. Chong Chom has been developed into a border market to export necessities into Cambodia, together with its counterpart on the Cambodian side. Most goods sold here barely differ from those in other border markets, but Chong Chom is nevertheless noted for rattan basketry and mats, smoked seat, and wooden furniture. Tourists have to pay customs tax for some goods. Horns, skins and wild animals are prohibited from importing into Thailand.

The market opens on Saturday – Sunday during 08.30 am. – 04.00 pm.. Tourists can cross the border into Cambodia simply by informing names, addresses, and number of persons in the group to the immigration officers.

Site Map: Surin

::: Surin